After much research I believe this to be from the Spring 1979 collection for Chloe by Karl Lagerfeld. In this collection he moved away from 1940s as his inspiration into the sex appeal of the 1950s, said the book 'Chloe Catwalk'. The silhouettes were based on the hourglass. In that same book there was a very similar floral pattern shown that is on this piece. Gathers emphasized hips, which this has, and the waist was emphasized. Feathers and the rooster were a part of both the prints and the accessories. Lagerfeld said of the collection to the press "Frivolity is important. I want shape and sensualness."
The dress is made from one of his signature feather light silks of this time period for Chloe that feel like magic on. It is screened with a custom print that mixes an ivory, pastel coral and a pale lavender purple. The entire dress is unlined and this is what helps to keep the dress so light in weight. An interesting detail is that the labels are on the side of the dress that I think is the front. The side that has the deep plunge is longer in length at the hem so I believe that should be the back. I have seen other dresses with this label placement from around this time period and when the back is plunged like this, so it is not unusual to see. I have photoed it both ways for you, with the plunge at the back and the front. You could potentially wear the plunge at the front if you don't mind the longer hem at the front. Much like that Lacroix dress from me that was worn to the Met Gala a couple years ago when they turned it around backwards. The sleeves are long and it skims over the bust to the waist. The back plunges into a low V to just above the waist. As mentioned above, it is possible that you could wear it either way around. It is incredibly sexy worn either way. The waist is seamed and the dress comes with it original striped screened silk belt that hooks into place around you. The stripes on the belt pick up the stripes that are on the end of each sleeve and circle around the hem. The skirt curves over the hips and there is a gathering of the silk there for added shape. It falls to the floor from there with the back cut longer then the front for a slight trained effect. You get the most fantastic movement as you walk. The dress is in its original uncut length. Excellent overall condition with a note below.
Unlined and closes with a back zipper. Hand finishes throughout. There is light fading to the fabric here and there at the top of the shoulders and edges of the hems where there is the purple in particular. This all looks to be hand dyed and or screened and it presents perfectly once on. The belt hooks to close. It is amazing.
Sleeves: 22.5" and are 11" around the upper arm
Shoulders: 14"
Bust: to 17" flat across from side seam to side seam
Waist: 12.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Hips: to 18.5" flat across from side seam to side seam
Bodice: 16.5" from neck to waist
Total length: 60" from neck to front hem, 68" to the back hem with about 2" turned under the hem
Belt: 2.5" wide x 27" long where the hooks currently sit.
Modern Sizing Equivalent: XS-SML
Item# DD5008
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